A
handhold of rope threaded the iron eyelets, winding upwards with the
narrow stairs.
Sheila
climbed ahead, remarking on the ability of stone to retain cold, even
now in the
heat
of the day. At the neat, Norman archway, she produced a comically
large key, its
appearance
not unlike a wire coat hanger twisted round on itself a number of
times, its
weight
a bottle of beer.
The
room, three paces by four, was walled with documents, parish records
dating from
the
mid thirteenth century right up to the service last Sunday. In the
wall opposite, a
small,
leaded pane was painted with the trees and blue sky of Norfolk
summer.
Sheila
opened a large floor chest, which she thought was late eighteenth
century; each
hinge
was the length of my forearm. She handed me a book, its creamy cover
holed
partly,
as if burnt. “Sheepskin,” Sheila offered, “or maybe goat.” I
thumbed through the
register
– soldiers, farmhands, widows – everyone’s life set out in neat
copperplate, a
record
of the parish, one November day, 1716. It was raining that day; on
one page, rain
stains
clearly dappled the ink. Whoever was in charge must have been out and
about the
town.
Sheila
made a cup of tea.
A
dehumidifier chugged quietly in the corner. Sheila peered into the
drip well. “That’s
odd,”
she mused, without any further explanation.
She
waved casually in the direction of a small glass cabinet, and a Latin
document
recording
the permissions for the ‘new’ tower, c 1450, a dull red wax seal
revealing the
impress
of the Abbott of St Albans. Beneath the cabinet, more books and
loosely bound
folios.
“This
is one of my favourites, but not so very old, really,” she said,
drawing me over to
another
cabinet in the corner, and a poster there printed mainly in bright
red, advertising
Queen
Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897. The call to teas and cricket
was in perfect
condition.
I
left Sheila sitting at a small table, making notes, wishing me
goodbye without looking
up,
and made my way back down the twisting stairs.
At
the end of the North aisle, four tourists stood, looking up at a
massive brass
chandelier.
It looked dangerous to stand beneath, suspended daintily ten metres
from the
hammer-beam
ceiling. Imagine a long piece of string, and hanging from it a Fiat
Quattrocento,
but in brass, sprigged with candles, with ‘1712’ stamped on the
boot.
As
the tourists opened the oak door to leave, the June sun met the deep,
cool dark and
disappeared.